Scouting Sri Lanka

From doing the Hokey Pokey to being within arm’s length of Wild Elephants, it was certainly a trip to remember.

Sri Lanka isn’t on everyone’s bucket list. There are a few of you out there looking for the next “hot” location to visit and tell all your friends about. I guess I was in that boat. I had a travel photography friend who was looking to scout the location. Brendan van Son makes a large chunk of his income from photography workshops and is always looking to expand to different locations for those workshops. He had a few days free to explore. After a few messages on Facebook, he told me to mark it on my calendar and book some tickets. Why wouldn’t I tag along?

I frequent the Youtube travel community. So, I knew a little bit about Sri Lanka before the idea of actually going was ever considered. I knew there were some iconic locations, even if they weren’t famous yet. Plenty of Instagram influencers were already photographing themselves hanging out of blue trains and walking through the vast terraces of tea plantations. I prefer to leave people out of my photos unless it tells a story or shows scale. I’m not a big “look at me” person. That being said, everyone wants a new profile picture.

Sri Lanka isn’t a hard sell for photographers. You have your choice; landscape, wildlife, and street photography are all possible. I couldn’t wait. I’m not the best street photographer, but landscapes and wildlife are my favorites. Plus, I’d never seen a wild elephant before.

Sri Lanka Photography

Train crossing Nine Arch Bridge after sunset – Ella, Sri Lanka

My flight from Dubai arrived around midnight. It took a little longer to get through customs because of an annoying visa error. Yes, you do need to apply for a visa a few days before your trip. Without approval, you’ll be stuck in the airport for an unknown amount of time. I blame my mistake on the computer application used to fill out the visa. My birth month was changed from October to June when I changed either the day or the year. I should have double-checked everything. In the end, I had to wait for about an hour to have someone fix and approve my visa.

Leaving the airport was an entirely different story. I HATE dealing with airport taxis. Please, do your research first. Find out how much a trip to the city of your hotel should cost. Everyone wants to rip off travelers, especially Americans. If I can, I order a car from whichever app that country allows. However, there is a  trend of drivers not being allowed into airports to pick up passengers. That was the case here.

Colombo International Airport was relatively small compared to most international airports I’ve flown in and out of. It didn’t take me long to walk out to the main road. Even at night, the air was still pretty warm and sticky. There were only a few pesky cab drivers to avoid. I wasn’t alone. Plenty of people were walking out to this road, presumably to do the same thing. Shortly after, my Grab driver arrived to take me to my hotel.

I had 2 days before my buddy arrived. Jet lag was minimal, only a few hours ahead of Dubai, but I still woke up a bit late. This led to my first Asian tuk-tuk ride. I was able to book one from my hotel to an upscale mall on the Grab app. My outlet converter disappeared, probably still plugged in at my Airbnb in Dubai. After searching the internet for somewhere to buy a converter, it looked like the mall was the best choice. Plus, it was lunchtime. The food court option was appealing.

After getting my bag checked by mall security and strolling through the metal detector, I made my way to the travel store. It was the only place that had universal outlet converters. I thought the price was too high. Then, I thought my meal at the food court was too high. I understood that this was a nice mall, but this is Sri Lanka, not Dubai.

I later returned to the mall after realizing I was using the wrong rupees for my conversion.1 USD equaled about 175 Sri Lankan rupees at the time. While Indian rupees were closer to 75. That’s a big difference. I thought the store wanted the equivalent of about $55. It was closer to $25. So, I went back to the mall the next morning, bought the converter, and grabbed some food and water at the supermarket there. I did some more walking around the city closer to sunset. I took a few photos here and there but didn’t find anything interesting enough to post. So, I ended up back at the hotel, got some food and beers at the bar, and went to bed.

Sri Lanka Photography

Red Masjid and tuk tuk – Colombo, Sri Lanka

A day later, Brendan arrived for his scouting trip. I was excited. I couldn’t wait to get out of the city. We were leaving early the next morning (pre-sunrise early.) I hate waking up early. When I know I’ll be waking up super early, I’ll try to take a shower the night before. That way, I can just wake up, get dressed, and leave. I wish I’d done that.

Our hotel was great. The rooms were huge. It was an old colonial-style building. Old buildings will have problems here and there. One of those problems was getting hot water at 4 am. The bathroom and shower were huge. You could’ve fit 10 people my size in the shower. I needed the space for myself.  Do you remember the Hokey Pokey? “You put your left arm in and pull your left arm out. You do the Hokey Pokey, and you shake it all about.” That was my cold shower that morning. That’s one way to wake up. 

The train station wasn’t far away. Close enough to walk, even with heavy rolling bags. We arrived at the train station and were immediately marked. I’m not sure if this was a scam, but you have to be aware of scams anywhere in the world. A deaf man wanted to direct us to our train and help us with our bags. We said “no”, but that did not stop him. The train pulled up about 30 minutes later. He was there waiting for us. He looked at our tickets and showed us our seats. He even wanted to help with our bags. After we were set up, he gave us paper explaining that he was raising money for a blind/deaf charity. I think we gave him the equivalent of $10 USD.

Sri Lanka Photography

Snacks and Drinks for train ride – Fort Railway Station – Colombo, Sri Lanka

If you search for photos of Sri Lanka, you’ll see a lot of blue trains. Not all the trains in Sri Lanka are blue. Lots of them are orange. I’m not sure if the colors mean anything. Like anywhere else, you have different prices and different routes. Our train was orange. Brendan had booked tickets and got us seats reserved in the observation car. This car was located in the caboose with a large window for viewing out the back. I wouldn’t call it a luxury car, but I also don’t think those exist. When it comes to photos, I do suggest sitting in the back, or near the back. Ideally, you want to shoot from the back to the front on wide turns. Be warned, this involves hanging off the side of the train to get a clear shot. Hold on tight. It gets bumpy.

Sri Lanka Photography

Riding the train from Colombo to Kandy, Sri Lanka

The first stop was Kandy. I feel like Kandy was a great introduction to Sri Lanka. Colombo was interesting but much busier than Kandy. The main part of town is near a large lake that was filled with, what I believed to be, tilapia. Near this lake, you have the Temple of the Tooth (where they keep a tooth from Budha), the Old Royal Palace, a National Museum, Kandy City Centre mall, and plenty of food options. 

Sri Lanka Photography

Streets of Kandy under Buddha – Kandy, Sri Lanka

You also have a few hikes and viewpoints nearby. We hiked early the next morning to one of the big Budha statues. It wasn’t a very challenging hike, but there were a few steep roads. You may want to hire a driver if you’re not looking to be drenched in sweat. Bring water, the humidity will get to you.

Sri Lanka Photography

Sunrise from Buddha’s View Point – Kandy, Sri Lank

We got back in time to get buffet breakfast and a shower before heading to Sigiriya. This section of the trip was one of a few occasions where we used private transportation. Trains are great, but they don’t always go to the exact locations you’re visiting. Trains can also be a bit slow. Even if the train can get you from point A to point B, hiring a driver might be the best route. We booked our drivers through the hotels. Grab, the Uber of Asia wasn’t always available outside of Colombo.

If you’re into ancient history, Sigiriya is the place for you. The Unesco Heritage site is the Machu Picchu of Sri Lanka. The story of its creation sounds a bit dramatic. You have a king with two sons. The sons are half brothers. The non-heir son kills his father. The other son flees to India. The new King builds a new palace in Sigiriya on an easily defendable plateau. His brother eventually returns with an army to reclaim the throne. Rather than surrendering, the King takes his own life. The rightful heir claims the throne and relocates it back to the capital. Sigiriya was then converted into a Buddhist monastery complex until about the 13th or 14th century. 

With anything dating back to the 3rd century B.C., there are plenty of variations to the story. In the end, this is a beautiful and unique place that is worth the visit. Unfortunately, we had less than 24 hours here. We didn’t have time to hike up to the palace and view the grounds. Instead, we hiked up another large rock for a stunning view of the plateau. The hike was a little harder than anticipated. We were glad we had a chance to experience it in the daylight. The next morning, we were going to hike in the dark to make it up top for sunrise. If I ever go back, I’ll stay at least two nights.

Sri Lanka Photography

Sigiriya from Pidurangala at Sunrise – Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

From Sigiriya, we went back to Kandy and caught a train to Ella. This city was a bit more touristy than the rest of what we saw in Sri Lanka. I’m sure it will continue to grow as the location becomes more known. Ella is Instagram famous for its terraced tea plantations and the Nine Arch Bridge. It was a beautiful area that deserves the popularity. Plenty of tourists were hanging out and taking selfies as they waited for a train crossing. We were the only two photographers with tripods. I’m willing to bet that’s going to change in a few years. All in all, Ella was a beautiful area with hikes, zip lines and other tourist activities to enjoy with your family.

Sri Lanka Photography

Blue Train crossing Nine Arch Bridge – Ella, Sri Lanka

Next up on the photo adventure was Udawalawe National Park on the southern end of the island. I was extremely excited for this next location. Although I’m a travel/landscape photographer, I grew up loving animals. I love wildlife photography. It’s just extremely difficult and super expensive. For the first time, I was going on Safari. I couldn’t wait!

We hired a driver who picked us up after breakfast and drove south to Udawalawe. Along the way, I saw my first wild elephant just off the side of the road. Unfortunately, the elephant was only there because locals were feeding it some chopped watermelon. It was a cool first experience, but I don’t agree with feeding wild animals. Our driver was a great salesman. After discovering we wanted to take a safari later that day, he was able to introduce us to a safari operator on the way to our hotel. On the side of the road, we were able to reserve a private tour with a small down payment. Price was reasonable for a two-person private tour. We enjoyed the safari so much, we reserved a sunrise safari for the following day.

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Elephant crosses between 2 safari vehicles – Udawalawe National Park, Sri Lanka

Udawalawe was a great park for Asian Elephants. We also saw water buffalo, crocodiles, wild boar, a few different birds (mainly Bee Eaters), and some cool looking lizards. There are a bunch of parks, so I recommend doing research to select the park that’s right for you. Jaguars are extremely difficult to find, but some parks have higher concentrations than others. Even at those parks, you have to get lucky. I was happy seeing the elephants.

Sri Lanka Photography

Framed Eye – Udawalawe National Park, Sri Lanka

Did I mention that our driver was a good salesman? Instead of taking a taxi to the nearest train station, we negotiated a price for him to pick us up the next day and take us back to Colombo(a 4-hour drive). Sadly, the trip was coming to an end. There were still many parts of the country to explore, but Brendon had a schedule to keep. He flew out that night to lead a workshop. I woke up early the next morning to fly to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. It was another 4 am wake-up. Having learned my lesson a week before, I showered the night before. No hokey pokey before my flight. 

Sri Lanka Photography

Elephant tossing dirt on the head and back to help with the hot sun – Udawalawe National Park, Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka Photography

Shy Baby Elephant – Udawalawe National Park, Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka Photography

A herd of Elephants drinking from a pond – Udawalawe National Park, Sri Lanka

Brendan van Son getting some shots and b-roll for his Youtube channel - Train to Kandy, Sri Lanka

Brendan van Son getting some shots and b-roll for his Youtube channel – Train to Kandy, Sri Lanka

 

Sri Lanka Photography

Teenager choosing a filter on his iPhone – Train to Ella, Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka Photography

Watagoda Train Station – Watagoda, Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka Photography

Sunset Thunderstorms over a Tea Plantation – Ella, Sri Lanka

If you have any questions about Sri Lanka Photography, please contact me.

Common Questions About Travelling to Cuba

Since my return from Cuba, lots of people have asked questions about the whole experience of travelling there. In this post, I’m going to answer the most frequently asked questions about my visit to this amazing destination. 

Even after years of legally being allowed to visit Cuba and having direct US airlines flights to this island just south of Key West, many Americans still don’t consider going. I was one of those people. After hearing the news that restrictions were being placed on American travel to the country, I figured I had missed my chance during the Obama Administration.

Artistic Travel Photographs Havana Cars

Street Scene: Old Pastel Colored Buildings Framing a Classic Blue Auto

Can I still visit Cuba legally? (US citizen)

I flew from Fort Lauderdale to Cuba in January of 2019.  I had no problem with travel restrictions.  However, the political atmosphere has changed and may continue to change.  Here is a good resource for getting updated information on restrictions.

The current administration wants to restrict Americans’ tourist money helping to support the current Cuban government because of their support of the Maduro government in Venezuela.

When travelling to Cuba, online check-in isn’t available. You’ll have to go to the check-in counter. While there, the JetBlue employee asked me a few simple questions. “Are you travelling with anyone?” “Have you already booked a hotel or Air B&B?” It seemed like a normal conversation while she was filling out my Visa. At some point, I confirmed I would be avoiding all government-owned restaurants or hotels. However, I can’t recall whether I was asked or just volunteered the information. I had studied the category “Support of the Cuban People” as my reason for travelling to Cuba. I knew the rules and knew exactly what I needed to say based on my reason for travelling to Cuba.

While I made my way to the gate, I was given two forms to complete. One form for family information and declarations. The other for reporting my health status as I entered the country. Both forms were for the Cuban Government.

Is it safe?

This depends on your definition of what you consider “safe”. As far as crime, Cuba is considered relatively safe. Like anywhere, there is always a chance for crime to occur. I carried my camera gear everywhere. My camera was always out. I left my wallet in my back pocket. There were no issues for me at all. However, I don’t consider myself the usual target. You should always be aware of your surroundings. Never be careless with your phone or other valuables.

Artistic Travel Photographs Cats and Dog Cuba Street Scene

Street Scene: Stray Cats and Dogs Roam the streets of Havana

Transportation may be a different story. The old green and blue taxis don’t have seatbelts. I rode with my backpack on my lap in front of my chest, in case of an accident. The newer, more expensive, yellow cabs have seat belts. If you value safety over frugality, go with the yellow taxis. In my case, I like to save a buck any way I can.

Local buses, from what I could see, were always packed. You’ll see long lines in the mornings and afternoons and people try to save money instead of sharing taxi rides home. I’ll have to get back to the buses in the future. I didn’t take any buses on this trip.

I planned on taking one to Viñales but was scooped up by a hustler that told me I could take a taxi for the 2 ½ hour drive for 25 CUC ($25). The catch was that I would have to wait for these guys to find 2 more people, making the total ride worth $75. The bus was half that price but needed to wait 5 hours for it to arrive. I’d also have to leave my bag of equipment in the storage compartment on the bottom of the bus. I’m not a huge fan of that. The risk of having my gear lost, damaged or stolen is too great. So, $25 it was.

Another way to rationalize the price of taking a taxi, in case you’re not completely sold, is it costs $20-$30 per person to share get a cab to Havana from the Airport (only a 20-25-minute ride).

Note: Depending on the time of year, buses can sell out. I’d assume taxi ride prices increase in those times.                     

Do I need to know Spanish?

In a word, yes. Do you need to be fluent? Of course not, but it helps. Most people who have visited Cuba suggest knowing how to count to a hundred. I agree, but that’s not all. You need to have some of the basics down as well. (“Excuse me. How much is this? Where is this? I need help. Please. Thank You. Do you speak English? I don’t speak much Spanish. I’m sorry. Hello. Goodbye.”) Those are a few to start off with.

Remember, Wi-Fi is extremely limited in Cuba. Google translate and other apps that need data or Wi-Fi will be relatively useless. I know some Spanish but found it extremely frustrating when I couldn’t have a conversation or explain exactly what I needed because my knowledge was limited. I will brush up on my Spanish before my next trip to Cuba or I’ll visit with someone who is fluent.

Artistic Travel Photographs Cuban Street Scene

Street Scene: Portrait of Older Cuban Man Sitting Outside (Always ask permission before photographing people.)

On the other hand, you can easily go to Cuba without knowing a word of Spanish by hiring a bilingual guide. Prices per day for a guide can be quite reasonable and makes a lot of sense if you are travelling with others and can share the expense. Another option is visiting Cuba with a Travel Company. The company will have an English-speaking guide. Buying a spot on a tour with a travel company will also cover one of the categories for Americans to legally visit Cuba. If you have the money, it’s a great option.           

How much money should I bring?

Americans need to bring all the cash they think they’ll need for their entire stay. Your US bank account and credit cards don’t exist in Cuba. Leave a little reserve so you know you can return to the airport for your flight home. You can always exchange unused cash at the airport or buy some goods at the duty-free store before your flight home.

Common Questions About Travelling To Cuba

Street Scene: Classic Convertible Driving along the Malecón in Havana

The answer to how much money should I bring, depends on your lifestyle. If you want to spend a lot of money on tours, food and alcohol, then you need to bring a little extra. If you’re slightly frugal while travelling, like me, $100 a day is more than enough. I brought the equivalent to $1,000 for 10 days, bought over 30 cigars, 2 bottles of good rum and still had money left over. It’s a good thing too. I eventually needed that extra cash. That story is for another time, however…

How long should I stay?

(Havana) (Viñales)

Like any trip, length of stay depends on what you’d like to see or do. I try to leave travel days open. Days that include flights or long journeys will either count as half days or be considered a wash. If you plan to go from Trinidad to Viñuales, expect it to take a full day. I was told 8 hours by Taxi. It would most likely be longer by bus.

Havana is a huge city. Most of it, you probably won’t bother exploring. There are plenty of things to do and see. Depending on how much you’d like to spend, you can see many sites in a relatively short amount of time.

You can take a tour in a well-kept classic car that will take you to all the sites around the city. It looked like a good time, but it can be very pricey. I was by myself, so it seemed like a waste of money. If you have some extra cash and a nice day, I would say go for it. This option is great for tourists visiting via a cruise. Take the tour, grab a few mojitos and some local food. That could be all you need. (UPDATE: cruises from the US are not stopping in Cuba currently.)

I was there for photography: building my portfolio and improving my street photography skills. I wandered the streets of Central Havana for 3 days/nights. For the most part, I stayed away from the touristy areas. I wanted “the real Cuba”. Four days was just enough for me.

Common Questions on Travelling to Cuba

Viñales Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with Limestone Mountains

As for Viñales, 3 days is probably enough. You must visit the tobacco plantations, sample cigars and sample rum made from local small guava fruits. The region also offers some caves, a painted cliff and some breathtaking views. Because of days of rain, I was unable to visit anything other than a few plantations and a great viewpoint.

The restaurants were pretty good as well. It is a very touristy area, but worth it. I extended my stay due to weather issues. An extra day or two never hurts. Especially if you plan on going during the rainy season (May through October).

What can I bring back?

I’ve read you can only bring back a total of 50 cigars and up to 2 liters of alcohol from Cuba. This information may have been a little dated. I wasn’t worried. I didn’t need to bring back any more than what I thought was allowed. My experience at customs was interesting, however.

When I got to the U.S. customs kiosk in Fort Lauderdale, I was asked (electronically) if I had more than $800 in Cuban goods to declare. I clicked “No” and was never asked about it again. It was the quickest I’ve gone through customs in any country. I was amazed.

Bring back cigars from Cuba

Viñales Hand Rolled Cigars. Claimed By Some As the Best Tobacco in the World

Here is a quick overview of the Official Rules. Every person can bring back up the $800 in goods for personal use. If you’d like to bring back more, it’s a 4% tax up to the next $1,000 in goods per person. For example, four people = $3,200 tax free and up to $4,000 taxed at 4% ($160). Not bad… 

  • If you’d like to check out the full explanation, you can click here. 

*When leaving Cuba, I was never asked what I had bought that I was taking back home with me. It is possible that you are taxed on goods you are bringing back to The States. Bring some extra cash. You can always spend it on Duty-Free purchases at the airport.

Do I need a Visa? What is the cost?

You need a Visa to travel to Cuba. If you qualify for one of the ‘valid reasons’ for travelling to Cuba, you will get your Visa at your departing airport for $50. Make sure you keep this in a safe place. You’ll need it to leave Cuba.

Travel health insurance is also required. Travel insurance is normally covered in the cost of your flight ticket. I had no issues. Extra travel insurance is always an option. If adding extra insurance helps you sleep at night, buy it.

Common Questions About Travelling to Cuba

Cuban Visa Cost $50 and Is Obtained at the Airport During Departure

As Americans, we believe the opportunity to visit another country is always possible.  This is something that citizens in other countries dream of. 

If you have the chance, put a visit to Cuba on your shortlist of places to see in the world especially since it is so close to the US, reasonably priced and is very different from other Caribbean islands.

If you have any specific questions about my experiences that may help you plan your trip, especially as a fellow photographer, please Contact Me.